Gender-fluid cresce, mascolinità cala, moda-brutta riprende, p.pelle la vogliono i vegani, logo che la griffe rinnega . Andiamo con ordine. Pizzo, gonna, silhouette, paillette, piume nelle settimane della moda 'uomo'. Sono spettacoli ancora credibili? Ormai in crisi, pure a New York diversi stilisti hanno disertato.
E poi imbracature per uomo, riprese dalla donna, e gilè 'utili' quali fusione di marsupio e cintura 'industriale'.
Pelliccia vera lasciata, pelli esotiche anche da Chanel, la pelle in borse e scarpe resiste come idea di qualità. Quest'anno però viene data per vittoriosa la p.pelle, cioè pelle imitata in poliuretano, chiamata pleather. Vegani ulteriormente determinati nel '19 contro le crudeltà sugli animali.
Per scrollarsi il vecchio, le griffe modificano abbellendolo o tralasciano il logo tradizionale.
La "moda brutta", l'anti-fashion, avviata con le sneaker dei padri, si fa largo per guadagnare visibilità o cambiare aspetto: stivali alti alla coscia come sviluppo dei brutti UGG, top de-costruiti con felpe tagliate e ricucite alla stracciona. (Varsity, Anastasia Kolomiets, 13 Feb. 2019).
Due rilievi:
1) l'allarme assordante per la plastica dappertutto contrasta con il tentativo di promuovere la poliuretanica pleather
2) gli uomini veri sono disposti a cedere la propria mascolinità agli\alle stilisti\e?
Is it gender-fluid, ugly fashion together?
Gender fluid, ugly fashion ? Well..
Gender fluid grows, masculinity drops, ugly fashion revives, pleather is wanted by vegans, logos rejected by griffes. Go in order. Lace, skirts, dresses, silhouette etc. are appearing often during Menswear Fashion Week.
But such 'festivals' have lost credibility , as just happened in New York abandoned by several stylists. More, harnesses on men, like for women, and utility vests which emerge together and evolve into more complex contraption.
Fashion has embraced the faux fur trend, Chanel will no longer be using exotic animal skin too but leather is still used in shoes and handbags as a equation of quality.
2019 might be the year of change i.e. of pleather (imitation leather made from polyurethane). It's the year of the vegan who want to stop animal cruelty.
To renovate themselves the brands are moving away from the logos in favour of new patterns.
The ugly fashion trend i.e. anti-fashion is expected to gather momentum, with dad sneakers firmly ingrained. They need visibility and a renovated image.
See thigh-high boot designs following the original ugly boot UGG or the deconstructed tops made of cut-up sweatshirts sewn together. (Varsity by Anastasia Kolomiets, 13th Feb. 2019).
Two questions, please:
1) the alarms for plastics everywhere are deafening so it seems not be the right time to promote the polyurethane
2) are the true men willing to cede their masculinity to the designers?
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