#MeToo against sexual violence two years ago, then #TimesUp for the one in the workplace.
Told by social media and Diet Prada. Other taboos are: cultural appropriation, no diversity, sexual abuses in the fashion.
Photographers, Marcus Hyde and Timur Emek, attacked on Instagram, which has given Diet Prada 1.6 million followers. Last year Dolce & Gabbana was struck by advertisements in China. The positive aspect of the online is the short duration. (palatinate.org.uk/ Nov 25, 2019)
In October the Ceo Karl-Johan Persson (H&M) disputed the climate movement hostile (ridiculously) to air travel. He remained devoid of solidarity.
Fashion recited on magazines is elitist, different from everyday consumption, it forces reality and sets ideological or party objectives. Here are fresh examples, read on the BoF Daily Digest (11/23/2019).
Brendon Babenzied (Noah, streetwear) prefers values and collaboration instead of profit and competition .. impossible in fact
Dan Doty (Evryman) invites all males to slow down, relax, become more 'vulnerable' .. why?
Alok Menon, designer, urges fashion and cosmetics to abandon gender diversity to celebrate trans and non-binary ... who are a clear minority.
Few but noisy are the rich or celebrated personalities who protest, paying the media, to force us to consume less. They pretend not to know that the consequence would be a return to widespread poverty.
Bloomberg Intelligence repeats that fast fashion leads to buying and throwing clothes that could still be worn. H&M then began to study the alternatives to cotton, in order to avoid moratoriums on consumption: citrus peels, old fishing nets, solar panels on factories etc. (independent.co.uk / Oct 28/2019)
Fashion Revolution calls for greater sustainability by fighting against Black Friday, Cyber Monday and pre-Christmas purchases; indeed it disputes the discounts granted on such occasions. (ecotextile.com / 25 Nov 2019)
Generation Z contradicts itself, on the one hand just fast fashion and on the other Global Climate Strike.
Clothing accounts for 6.7% of global emissions of greenhouse gases and is increasing them. Among the solutions pointed out by the militants there are recycling and second-hand (news-decoder.com / 2019/11/25) Those are fantasies, which in addition to costing would violate the indispensable hedonism that makes us desire the art of dressing.
A censorship for the high end of Europe (Gucci, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Burberry etc) is to live in a bubble, to have staff with no diversity, as opposed to the United States, where the racial issue is addressed differently. The emotional connection with its remaining clients is still strong. Gucci, however, suffered complaints in the last Milan fashion week for the 'straitjacket' model, which the model Ayesha Tan-Jones showed with raised hands and written <Mental health is not fashion>. Scheduled entertainment? The same brand had found itself on the burning coals in May for having offered at $790 in the Nordstrom store a blue turban, considered offensive to the religious symbol of the Sikhs. Dior was put among the bad guys for having exploited the figure of the native American, who dances for the perfume "Sauvage" with Johnny Depp. (axios.com / Nov 25, 2019)
Loewe has just recalled a suit of mid-November at almost $2,000, after comments about the similarity to the uniforms of the Nazi concentration camps. (businessinsider.com / Nov 25, 2019).
Brands, publishers, influencers, social movements, political groups are in competition to make space for themselves. Every bullet, real or blank, is fine. So, confusion of creatives and traditional fashion crisis. The first victims would be the old raw materials, obtained with pollution from the environment: cotton and leather.
Told by social media and Diet Prada. Other taboos are: cultural appropriation, no diversity, sexual abuses in the fashion.
Photographers, Marcus Hyde and Timur Emek, attacked on Instagram, which has given Diet Prada 1.6 million followers. Last year Dolce & Gabbana was struck by advertisements in China. The positive aspect of the online is the short duration. (palatinate.org.uk/ Nov 25, 2019)
In October the Ceo Karl-Johan Persson (H&M) disputed the climate movement hostile (ridiculously) to air travel. He remained devoid of solidarity.
Fashion recited on magazines is elitist, different from everyday consumption, it forces reality and sets ideological or party objectives. Here are fresh examples, read on the BoF Daily Digest (11/23/2019).
Brendon Babenzied (Noah, streetwear) prefers values and collaboration instead of profit and competition .. impossible in fact
Dan Doty (Evryman) invites all males to slow down, relax, become more 'vulnerable' .. why?
Alok Menon, designer, urges fashion and cosmetics to abandon gender diversity to celebrate trans and non-binary ... who are a clear minority.
Few but noisy are the rich or celebrated personalities who protest, paying the media, to force us to consume less. They pretend not to know that the consequence would be a return to widespread poverty.
Bloomberg Intelligence repeats that fast fashion leads to buying and throwing clothes that could still be worn. H&M then began to study the alternatives to cotton, in order to avoid moratoriums on consumption: citrus peels, old fishing nets, solar panels on factories etc. (independent.co.uk / Oct 28/2019)
Fashion Revolution calls for greater sustainability by fighting against Black Friday, Cyber Monday and pre-Christmas purchases; indeed it disputes the discounts granted on such occasions. (ecotextile.com / 25 Nov 2019)
Generation Z contradicts itself, on the one hand just fast fashion and on the other Global Climate Strike.
Clothing accounts for 6.7% of global emissions of greenhouse gases and is increasing them. Among the solutions pointed out by the militants there are recycling and second-hand (news-decoder.com / 2019/11/25) Those are fantasies, which in addition to costing would violate the indispensable hedonism that makes us desire the art of dressing.
A censorship for the high end of Europe (Gucci, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Burberry etc) is to live in a bubble, to have staff with no diversity, as opposed to the United States, where the racial issue is addressed differently. The emotional connection with its remaining clients is still strong. Gucci, however, suffered complaints in the last Milan fashion week for the 'straitjacket' model, which the model Ayesha Tan-Jones showed with raised hands and written <Mental health is not fashion>. Scheduled entertainment? The same brand had found itself on the burning coals in May for having offered at $790 in the Nordstrom store a blue turban, considered offensive to the religious symbol of the Sikhs. Dior was put among the bad guys for having exploited the figure of the native American, who dances for the perfume "Sauvage" with Johnny Depp. (axios.com / Nov 25, 2019)
Loewe has just recalled a suit of mid-November at almost $2,000, after comments about the similarity to the uniforms of the Nazi concentration camps. (businessinsider.com / Nov 25, 2019).
Brands, publishers, influencers, social movements, political groups are in competition to make space for themselves. Every bullet, real or blank, is fine. So, confusion of creatives and traditional fashion crisis. The first victims would be the old raw materials, obtained with pollution from the environment: cotton and leather.
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| Neo-nazi protesters march in honor of the deceased Nazi general Lukov in Sofia, Bulgaria, 2019 (M.Marzorati, Cantù) |
Moda in confusione tra salute mentale e nazismo
#MeToo contro la violenza sessuale due anni fa, poi #TimesUp per quella sul posto di lavoro.
Raccontate da social media e Diet Prada. Si aggiungono altri tabù: appropriazione culturale, diversità ignorata, abusi carnali nella moda.
Attaccati fotografi, Marcus Hyde e Timur Emek, su Instagram, che dà a Diet Prada 1,6 milioni di follower. L'anno scorso Dolce&Gabbana fu colpito per i messaggi pubblicitari in Cina. L'aspetto positivo dell'on line è la brevità della durata. (palatinate.org.uk /Nov 25, 2019)
A ottobre l'a.d. Karl-Johan Persson di H&M contesta il movimento climatico (ridicolmente) ostile ai viaggi in aereo. Rimane privo di solidarietà.
La moda recitata sulle riviste è elitaria, diversa da quella quotidiana del consumo, forza la realtà e pone obiettivi ideologici o partitici. Ecco freschi esempi, letti su BoF Daily Digest (23/11/2019).
Brendon Babenzied (Noah, streetwear) predilige valori e collaborazione invece di profitto e competizione.. di fatto impossibile
Dan Doty (Evryman) invita tutti i maschi a rallentare, rilassarsi, diventare più 'vulnerabili'.. perché?
Alok Menon, designer, sollecita moda e cosmesi ad abbandonare le diversità di genere per celebrare trans e non-binari.. che sono netta minoranza.
Pochi ma rumorosi i personaggi ricchi o celebri che protestano, pagando i media, per costringerci a consumare meno. Fingono di non sapere che la conseguenza sarebbe il ritorno a povertà diffuse.
Bloomberg Intelligence ripete che fast fashion spinge ad acquistare e a buttare capi che potrebbero essere ancora indossati. H&M allora si mette a studiare le alternative al cotone, onde evitare moratorie sui consumi: bucce di agrumi, reti vecchie da pesca, pannelli solari sulle fabbriche etc. (independent.co.uk /Oct 28/ 2019)
Fashion Revolution reclama maggiore sostenibilità lottando contro gli acquisti Black Friday, Cyber Monday, pre-natalizi; anzi contesta gli sconti concessi in tali occasioni. (ecotextile.com /25 Nov 2019)
La generazione Z si contraddice, da un lato solo fast fashion e dall'altro Global Climate Strike.
L'abbigliamento costituisce il 6,7% delle emissioni planetarie di gas serra, le sta aumentando. Tra le soluzioni additate dai militanti c'è riciclaggio e usato.(news-decoder.com /2019/11/25) Fantasie, che oltre a costare violenterebbero l'edonismo irrinunciabile che ci fa desiderare l'arte del vestire.
Una censura per la fascia alta d'Europa (Gucci, Prada, Dolce&Gabbana, Burberry etc) è di vivere in una bolla, di avere staff privi di diversità, all'opposto degli Stati Uniti, dove la questione razziale è affrontata diversamente. Il legame emotivo con le sue clientele residue è tuttora forte. Gucci comunque ha subito lamentele nell'ultima settimana milanese della moda per il modello 'camicia di forza', che la modella Ayesha Tan-Jones ha mostrato con mani alzate e scritta <Mental health is not fashion>. Spettacolo programmato? La medesima Casa si era trovata sui carboni accesi nel maggio per avere offerto da Nordstrom a 790 dollari un turbante blu, ritenuto offensivo per il simbolo religioso dei sikh. Dior messo tra i cattivi per avere sfruttato la figura del nativo americano, che balla per il profumo "Sauvage" con Johnny Depp. (axios.com /Nov 25, 2019)
Loewe ha appena ritirato un completo di metà novembre a quasi 2000 dollari, dopo i commenti circa la somiglianza con le divise dei campi di concentramento nazisti. (businessinsider.com /Nov 25, 2019).
Brand, editori, influencer, movimenti sociali, gruppi politici sono in concorrenza per farsi spazio. Ogni pallottola, vera o a salve, va bene. Confusione dei creativi e crisi della moda tradizionale. Prime vittime le vecchie materie prime, ricavate con inquinamento dall'ambiente: cotone e pelle.
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